LAKE CHAPALA & VICINITY

Nestled in the Sierra Madre mountains of southwestern Mexico is Lake Chapala, the country's largest natural lake. It is located in a valley at an elevation of around 5,000 feet. The protective mountains and lake offer a natural ameliorating effect on the climate, which is rated one of the best in the world.

Lake Chapala's shores are dotted with charming and peaceful towns. Approximately 20,000 North Americans (some estimates go as high as 30,000) reside on the lake's north shore. Although the lake measures 55 by 15 miles wide, most of the

expatriates live within 20 miles of one another in the Northshore towns of Chapala, Ajijic and Jocotepec (and numerous smaller towns in between). With its near-perfect climate, cobblestone streets, flowering trees, lush mountains, tranquil lifestyle and low cost-of-living, Lake Chapala has become a popular destination for foreign visitors and retirees.
The north shore of Lake Chapala, sometimes called the Chapala Riviera, is situated about 45 minutes south of Guadalajara, Mexico's second largest city, and about 35 minutes south of

the Guadalajara international airport. Offering easy highway access to such popular destinations as Puerto Vallarta, the Costa Alegre (Manzanillo, Barra de Navidad, Melaque), Morelia, Zacatecas, Patzcuaro and Lake Chapala, Lake Chapala is indeed ideally located. Almost everything you could want can be found either at Lakeside or nearby Guadalajara.

A wealth of information is available through the web sites of the local newspapers.

MISCONCEPTIONS: First-time visitors to Lake Chapala are frequently jolted by the number of misconceptions they brought with them. These include:

1) Modern conveniences don't exist. WRONG! Just about everything you've taken for granted in your native country is available here. High-speed Internet service, indoor plumbing (complete with water purification and pressure systems), Cable and satellite TV, computers, VCRs, DVDs and other high-tech gadgets, cappuccino and espresso, state-of-the-art medical facilities, known name-brand imported products, and even retail outlets such as Wal-mart, KFC and Office Depot (in nearby Guadalajara) are all available, if you are willing to pay for them.

2) Everyone speaks Spanish. WRONG! In addition to the thousands of English-speakers from all over the world that have retired or relocated to this area, a great many Mexican nationals take pride in knowing how to communicate in English. Although it is always best to learn at least basic Spanish to ease those instances when Spanish is needed, many expatriates never learn Spanish and get by just fine.

3) Everyone rides a burro. WRONG! Although you do see the occasional burro or horse being ridden alongside automobiles on side streets, most people get around by car or by using the excellent bus transit service here. Auto dealerships such as those found north of the border are also found here, along with knowledgeable mechanics and auto parts outlets.

4) Mexicans are lazy. WRONG! The native Mexicans value their leisure time, and that means a healthier, less stressful lifestyle. However, when it is time to work, Mexicans hustle and make up for time lost taking a siesta or enjoying their daily life.

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR: Even though many fears about Mexico are unfounded, there are some genuine pitfalls. These include:

1) Don't drink the water. Ground water in Mexico is usually not purified before being piped to homes. Water for consumption (drinking and cooking) can be readily purchased by the bottle, including large 5-gallon containers for home use. Ordinarily, the Mexicans themselves drink bottled water and restaurants serve purified water. Just don't drink from the tap. It is a habit that is actually very easy to overcome, and many homes in the Lake Chapala area are equipped with whole-house purification systems.

2) Choose your food carefully. The stories about tourists getting diarrhea are often true. Produce available in markets has not been pre-washed, so you will need to get into the habit of washing it thoroughly with purified water before eating. Anti-bacterial drops to add to the water are also available. A good rule of thumb is to avoid street food until your body has become acclimated to the food here.

It is interesting to note that a great many foreign visitors get sick upon returning home, if they have been in Mexico for awhile. It seems to be largely a matter of what the body becomes accustomed to. Bacteria found here in Mexico may not exist north of the border — and vice versa. It is usually exposure to an unaccustomed variety of bacteria that is to blame for gastric disorders. The best course is to eat normally while exercising common sense. Should you develop unpleasant symptoms of gastritis, go to a reliable pharmacist. If fever accompanies diarrhea, consult a doctor. In lingering cases, it is wise to take a stool sample to a local lab for analysis, and then take the results to a doctor or pharmacy so that the correct medication can be prescribed.

3) Watch out for scorpions. It is not uncommon to come across a scorpion or other noxious insect. Many residents choose to spray their home regularly for pests such as these. It is a good rule of thumb to always check shoes before putting them on, and avoid going barefoot. The fear of scorpions seems to be greatly amplified in foreigners; the Mexicans tend to chuckle over what they consider an exaggerated fear. In truth, most scorpion stings hurt terribly for a few minutes (similar to a bee sting) and then disappear. However, the neuro-toxin from a scorpion sting can cause a bad reaction in a very small percentage of individuals, particularly the elderly and children under age three. Should you be stung and exhibit shortness of breath or other alarming symptoms, the local Red Cross has injections available to counter these symptoms. In many cases, people report that their symptoms have disappeared by the time they reach the Red Cross. Try not to be overly alarmed at the prospect. A great many people here have never been stung, even after decades in the area.

CLIMATE

Probably the principal attraction to Lake Chapala is its semitropical climate, rated among the best in the world. With an average temperature of 75° Fahrenheit, the sun shines almost every day. Even when the cooling rains come (June to September), it almost always rains during the late-night or pre-dawn hours, with the sunshine returning during the day, leaving the humidity just high enough to keep the brightly colored flowers blooming and turn the surrounding mountains a lush tropical green.

Almost every day in the Lake Chapala valley is mild. Many homes have garden terraces or patios as many people live outdoors much of the year. It would be difficult to find a more ideal climate anywhere in the world. In the winter months, temperatures dip low enough to appreciate a fireplace, though, generally, heating and air-conditioning are not needed.


Average monthly temperatures and precipitation

(in degrees Fahrenheit & inches)
Month: Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
                         
High Temp. 76 79 81 84 86 83 79 79 78 79 78 76
Low Temp. 47 49 50 54 58 61 60 60 59 55 49 47
Precipitation 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.3 1 6.3 9.7 7.6 5.8 2.3 0.4 0.5

POPULATION

Lake Chapala's Northshore community, often simply called "Lakeside", is an intercultural mix of native Mexicans, and individuals from Canada, the United States, Great Britain, Germany, France, etc, etc. Between 20,000 and 30,000 English-speaking foreigners reside

in this area. Because Lake Chapala is predominately a retirement area for expatriates, the majority of them are over age 45, although a growing number of families with children are moving here.

The towns of Jocotepec and Chapala are the Northshore's largest, followed by Ajijic, which holds the largest segment of the expatriate population.

CRIME RATE

When newcomers to Mexico see the large number of law officers holding machine guns, they assume they are in danger — either from criminals or the police themselves. There does seem to be, by U.S. standards, an inordinate number of officers, and the gun wielders do tend to make the gringos nervous. To the Mexican,

however, the officers are seen as a reassuring presence for law-abiding citizens, and a warning to the criminal element ... and that is how it is intended.

Although the Lake Chapala area has in the past been seen as easy prey for out-of-town burglars, this threat has almost been eliminated. Today — although the youth of Mexico seem to have an affinity for graffiti — serious crime is rare, and it is much safer to live here than north of the border. Even women can safely walk down the street at night. It is recommended that residents follow the

Mexican example of not placing temptation in the path would-be criminals. This means using common sense such as locking your doors, etc.

Additionally, in keeping with the "don't tempt `em" philosophy, most Mexican homes are surrounded by high walls and have iron bars (usually decorative) over the windows. (This also creates a very private sanctuary for the resident.) After living in Mexico for awhile, the unbarred windows and often-unfenced properties up north look very vulnerable and "inviting" to prospective burglars.


COST OF LIVING

Despite promotional claims that one can "live in Mexico on $500 USD a month", it simply isn't so. At least, not if you expect some semblance to your accustomed lifestyle. However, compared with the United States and Canada and, indeed, most of the "first world" countries, the cost of living here remains quite low. This is partially due to the fact that mortgages are nearly unheard of (bank interest is still exorbitant) so home and automobile ownership usually requires all cash or owner financing with a hefty down payment. Since homes are owned outright, most labor

intensive expenses, such as meals in a restaurant, construction or auto repair is generally a bargain. In fact, it is difficult to find a first-rate evening meal that exceeds $12 USD. Building costs are in the $45 USD per square foot range. Nearly all construction is masonry so fire insurance is seldom purchased. Real estate taxes are minimal at about .015% of fair market value.

An annual physical check up by a well qualified, bilingual, often US-educated physician is about $30 USD plus tests. Maids and gardeners work for $1.50 USD per hour or a little more depending upon their length of service.

While some items are more expensive than one may be accustomed to (such as gasoline, phone service and goods imported from the US), other items are much cheaper (such as fresh produce, property taxes, utilities and services), and still others are about the same. One thing to make note of is that used merchandise maintains a value close to that of new merchandise.


BUYING OR RENTING REAL ESTATE

Generally speaking, housing costs are significant but comparable to costs in rural or small town America. Comfortable and adequate housing can be had for around $100,000 USD. Views, pools and deluxe amenities, of course, drive the price higher.

Depending on which Lakeside village you reside in, rent for a 2-bedroom, 2-bath home will average in the $250-$550 USD range. A modest one-bedroom apartment in Chapala may rent for $150 USD per month, while upscale executive homes with a pool in elite areas of Ajijic rent for $1,000 USD or more. Many times, rent will include a part-time gardener and/or maid.

While some management agencies require first and last month's rent plus a deposit, other homes can be rented for nothing more than the first month's rent. It all depends on what you want, how long you want it for, and who you talk to in making the deal. Once again, lake views, pools and other deluxe amenities mean higher rent.

The closer one is to Ajijic the higher the price. Foreigners may own property in Mexico and receive valid deeds, either "direct" or "in trust". Direct deeds are similar to the standard Quit Claim Deed and may be written to include any immediate family member as heir. Trust deeds put title to your property in the name of a banking institution naming the owner as beneficiary. The advantage of a trust deed is that you may name non-family members as heirs; the down side is the substantial annual fee charged by the bank for their services. There is no Title Insurance in Mexico but the Notary Public who closes the transaction is required by Mexican law to do a thorough title search for the benefit of the purchaser; and any reputable Realtor will research potential liens such as unpaid homeowner's fees, water bills, real estate taxes and the like. This is an important service since no "warranty" deeds are issued as there are in North America.

Realtors linked to this site are members of Grupo Inmobiliario del Lago (GIL), which adheres to strict Regulations and a Code of Ethics which help ensure a safe transaction, which can be especially important to foreigners unfamiliar with the laws of Mexico.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Visitors to Lake Chapala's north shore will find dozens of bungalows, casitas (guest houses), hotels and B&Bs in the area, from 5-star hotels with pristine pools and a panoramic lake views to intimate bed & breakfasts on quiet side streets. The services and ambiance will vary greatly at each lodging place, but it is safe to say that there is something for every person, preference and budget.


SHOPPING

As stated previously, just about everything you've taken for granted in your native country is available here. High-speed Internet service, water purification and pressure systems, cable and satellite TV, computers, VCRs, DVDs, digital cameras and other high-tech gadgets, cappuccino or espresso, state-of-the-art medical facilities, name-brand imported products are all readily available. On rare occasions, one may need to order a special item from the U.S., in which case an incoming "duty" may have to be paid.

While Lakeside offers food outlets such as Dominos Pizza and Golden Fried Chicken, others such as Chili's, Sirloin Stockade, Pizza Hut, KFC, Burger King, McDonald's, Applebee's, Subway and Baskin & Robbins are as close as Guadalajara. Retail outlets such as Walmart, Sam's, Home Depot, Price Club, Ace Hardware and Office Depot are also available in Guadalajara, about 45 minutes away.

At Lakeside, you will find blocks of stalls, street markets, galleries, and workshops in the area. Antiques, furniture, tapestries, glassware, lamps, wrought-iron furniture, masks, pottery, jewelry, art and artesanias of all kinds are sold here. In fact, the Lake Chapala area is fast becoming the region's supplier of quality crafts, replacing Tonala.


RELOCATION

For anyone considering a move to Lake Chapala, it is recommended that you first visit the area to determine which area you would like to live in, what you will need to bring with you, etc. Many people sell their household furnishings and move down with nothing more than the essentials. However, should you wish to have your furniture shipped down, you will need to contact a reputable moving company, which will handle all permits, etc. (See also Immigration)

Depending on the length of your stay, you will need to research the type of visa you will require. The simplest and most recommended way is to simply acquire a tourist (FMT) visa as you cross the border. If arriving by air, the airport routinely issues an FMT for 30 days. If entering by car, an FMT valid for 60 days can be obtained. You must apply for a more permanent visa before your FMT expires. It is highly recommended that you contact an immigration lawyer to assist with this process. The money you spend will be worth the time and hassle you'll save.

Should you be from a country other than those Mexico has designated as "unrestricted" (such as Europe, North America, Japan and Australia), you will be required to obtain your visa through a Mexican consulate in your country of origin before you can actually enter the Mexico.

IMMIGRATION

There are basically three types of resident status granted by three visas: the FMT tourist visa, the FM3 working visa, and the FM2 long-term residency visa. Depending on the length of your stay, you will need to research the type of visa you will require.

FMT: For short-term residency or vacation trips, one need only acquire a tourist (FMT) visa as you cross the border. For the FMT, you will be required to show your birth certificate and a pictured ID such as a driver's license, and pay a fee of $20 USD. A passport is recommended but not required. If accompanied by only one parent (or a non-parent), a child under 18 must have a birth certificate and notarized consent to travel abroad issued by the absent parent(s), or proof that the single parent has sole custody.

If arriving by air, the airport routinely issues an FMT for 30 days, although additional time is sometimes granted upon request.

If entering by car, an FMT valid for a maximum of 180 days can be obtained. To enter with your car, you will need a valid driver's license, registration or original title, a notarized letter from the lien holder (if applicable), and a major credit card. If you do not have a major credit card, you will need to post a cash bond based upon your car's value that will be refunded upon leaving Mexico.

If you are already in the country and your visa was granted for a period shorter than six months, you can request an extension of the term at the Mexican Consulate, the aduana, or a travel agency. It is recommended you request this extension 15 days prior to the expiration of your visa. It is also not uncommon for

Lake Chapala expatriates to make a "border run", either in their own vehicle or on one of Mexico's non-stop, first-class buses. They usually cross over, eat lunch or shop in the U.S. for a few hours, then obtain a new FMT when returning.

As stated earlier, should you be from a country other than those Mexico has designated as "unrestricted" (such as Europe, North America, Japan and Australia), you will be required to obtain your visa through a Mexican consulate in your country of origin before you can actually enter the Mexico.

Upon returning to your country, you will have to return the FMT to the authorities. Keep it in a safe place so you don't lose it. The tourist visa for Mexico does not allow you to work in the country.

FM3: The FM3 visa grants residency for one year. It may also include a permit to work and earn money while in Mexico. Foreign-plated cars owned and imported by an FM-3 holder may be kept in Mexico as long as your FM-3 is valid.

To obtain an FM3, it is recommended that the assistance of an immigration lawyer who will can advise you and who know the ins and outs of the whole business. What money you spend will be worth the time and hassle you'll save. A passport, in addition to numerous other documents, will be required. In most cases, proof of income will also need to be provided.

To work legally in Mexico, you must obtain permission from Immigration and have the permit attached to your FM-3 or FM-2 document. If you are relocating with your company, your company should take full responsibility for your FM3 process, using its own company lawyer for the task. If you enter the country and afterward find work with a company, your company will be responsible for acquiring your FM3.

FM2: The FM3 grants long-term residency. This is the last step in the process of becoming an immigrant in Mexico.

RETIREMENT

The Lake Chapala area is home to thousands of expatriate retirees who have chosen to spend their golden years on its semi-tropical shores. Retirement in Mexico should not affect your Social Security or retirement benefits, and those on a fixed income seem to manage well on the lower cost-of-living here. For those wishing to retire here, it is suggested that you fully research any federal tax requirements that may apply to expatriates. Ordinarily, a foreign residence carries certain tax benefits.

HEALTH CONCERNS

Quality health care is always a concern for those traveling far from home. Lake Chapala has many well trained (some in the U.S.) English-speaking physicians and specialists. Some are in private practice (and even make house calls); others work out of clinics. These clinics all have emergency capability, outpatient surgical facilities, and short-term hospital care. Further, all these clinics are associated with major hospitals in Guadalajara, and ambulance service to these hospitals. There are also several reasonably priced medical insurance options, including air evacuation. Various assisted living facilities are available.

The Chapala Red Cross also provides emergency ambulance service to Guadalajara. In Guadalajara there are many excellent hospitals, including those of two university medical schools, where the latest diagnostic tools are available, as well as up-to-date treatment of all diseases.

Mexico has nationalized medical care and makes certain hospitals and emergency facilities available to all, regardless of their ability to pay. Additionally, the government-run IMSS hospitals are some of the best equipped in Mexico. However, be aware that there may be a waiting time until you can be "worked in" for consultation, treatment or surgery.

COSTS: Many foreigners come to Mexico to take advantage of low-cost plastic surgery, dental procedures and other services. Most doctor visits cost between $9 and $22 USD, with specialist consultations slightly higher. Prescription drug costs are a fraction of the costs north of the border, and most can be purchased over-the-counter. The government's IMSS insurance is available to those under 60 for approximately $140 USD per year, and to those over 60 for just over $200 USD.


ACTIVITIES & ORGANIZATIONS

For many expatriates arriving in a foreign country, the available civic clubs, organizations and their associated activities are an important social link with other English-speakers. The Lake Chapala area offers many social and civic groups, along with organizations such as Ajijic Society of the Arts, American Legion (the largest in Mexico with over 400 members), Bridge Clubs, Genealogy Club, Chess Club, Computer Club, two country clubs, Chapala Country Club and Chula Vista Country Club, Culinary Arts Society, Daughters of the American Revolution, Garden Guild, Humane Society,

Kiwanis Club, Lakeside Little Theater, Music Appreciation Society, Needle Pushers, the Red Hat Mamas, Rotary International Writer's Guild. In addition, with golf, tennis, horseback riding, boating, fishing, hiking, martial arts and yoga, you can be as active as you choose to be.

One of the largest organizations is the Lake Chapala Society, where over 2,700 members from the U.S., Canada and 28 other countries meet and enjoy a video and book library, lovely gardens (1½ acres), membership directory and a children's library.

Nightspots and dance clubs come and go, but you can always find some sort of entertainment at local restaurants and bars. Some feature live bands, a dance area, and theme nights. Also, just 45 minutes away in Guadalajara one can find a wealth of places to dance and party the night away.

Hiking paths that from the north shore town to mountain forests, waterfalls and hot springs are also marked on area maps.

AREA ATTRACTIONS

Balnearios (thermal springs) are one of the Lakeside's most relaxing and therapeutic natural attractions. Underground thermal springs are numerous, and can be found in remote mountain areas, and occasionally in private homes. The largest and best-known public balneario is in San Juan Cosala, between the towns of Ajijic and Jocotepec, which features natural thermal water in various swimming pools, three hotels, and a restaurant. For visitors who want something livelier, there is Tobolandia, a (non-thermal) water park in Ajijic offering water slides and other diversions.

There are also two golf courses in the Lake Chapala area, several health spas, tennis courts, video arcades, etc. Not to be missed are the many presentations by the Lakeside Little Theatre, the Circle Theater and other groups.

For exploration of other attractions, there are several tour guide businesses, which utilize vans or buses at reasonable prices. Popular destinations include historic Guadalajara, a tequila factory, Ballet Folklorico in the famous Teatro Degollado, and even "shop-till-you-drop" jaunts to the Tonala artisan's district, Walmart and Price Club.

From the Chapala pier, a number of excursions are possible, from a one-hour ride along the lakeshore to extended lake and island tours. These could include a two-hour visit to Scorpion Island (Isla Alacranes), with its regional food restaurants and bird watching; or four hours round_trip to Mezcala Island (Isla Presidio), a national

monument with the remains of a fort around which the historical Battle of Mezcala took place.

EVENTS

A number of special events highlight life at Lake Chapala. Among them are: the annual Carnaval (Mardi Gras) held at Chapala's huge Cristiania Park; an annual arts exhibition called Expo Redes, the annual Chili Cook-Off, a 3-day festival held each February to benefit a variety of local charities; the annual celebrations for the Mexican, American and Canadian Independence days held in the gardens of the Lake Chapala Society; and annual fiestas held in each town plaza in honor of the local patron saints.

The Carnaval, usually held in February, attracts thousands and begins with the traditional "burial of Bad Humor", the beautiful floats,

costumed and masked groups, followed by "serenades" to the Carnival Queen and the crowning of "The Ugly King" in the Main Plaza.

Each patron saint fiesta runs for two weeks, and provides nightly live bands, a wide assortment of food and free-flowing alcoholic drinks, fireworks, carnival rides, and a multitude of booths, gift & novelty stands, and games of chance. The Mexicans have a love of loud noises, and it is common during fiesta time to hear cuhuetes (pyrotechnic rockets) and firecrackers going off at all hours.

SCHOOLS

In addition to the Spanish-language public schools the Lake Chapala area offers several private bilingual schools for ages pre-school and kindergarten through 12th grade. A vocational school recently opened on the bypass linking Chapala and Ajijic. Although there is a small satellite campus in Chapala, the closest university is in Guadalajara.

For those wishing to learn Spanish, there are several language instructors who offer classes, in addition to the Lake Chapala Society. There are also some excellent language schools in neighboring Guadalajara.

HISTORY OF LAKE CHAPALA

Lake Chapala is beautiful, nestled in a verdant valley in Mexico's south central highlands at an altitude of 1,525 meters or about a mile high. Once an enormous inland "sea" 70,000 square kilometers or over three times the size of El Salvador, it is surrounded by mountain ranges that were formed through a series of volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, leaving the area's hot springs as a reminder. The lake is fed by the Lerma River, which enters at the east end, and forms a link to the Santiago River, which empties into the Pacific Ocean.

Two islands are found in Lake Chapala: One of these, Scorpion Island, is a sacred site for indigenous Mexicans. The other, Mezcala Island, is a national monument and the site of a glorious episode in Mexican history. In the early 1800's, from their stronghold on the island, a very determined band of 1000 Mexican insurgents—grossly outnumbered and with little or no arms and supplies—held off the powerful Spanish army and navy for four years. Eventually defeated by typhoid and dysentery rather than force of arms, the freedom fighters' brave resistance is said to have inspired Mexico's independence in 1821, ending 300 years of colonial rule

Just before the start of the 20th Century, tourists discovered the sleepy little fishing village of Chapala and a small building boom began. D. H. Lawrence wrote his novel The Plumed Serpent (published 1926) while living in Chapala. The novel is nominally set on Sayula Lake, though the description is clearly that of Chapala town and lake.

In the early 1990s, with the construction of numerous dams and an increasing demand for water for industry and farming, a tug-of-war over rights to Lake Chapala and its water supply began. As a result, the lake level dropped to a critical stage and received worldwide attention.

In 2003, Lake Chapala was accepted as a full member of the Global Nature Fund's Living Lakes program, which works to protect and preserve endangered lakes of the world, such as Lake Chapala.

While Mexico's politicians and authorities argued over the best way to do that, nature stepped in, bringing an unusually abundant rainy season that forced upstream dams to release excess water. As a result, the lake has now largely recovered, bringing a flood of tourists and prospective retirees back to the area. Although problems relating to Lake Chapala's water supply still exist, nature has at least bought time to resolve the issues.

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